Hair Color Process in a Nutshell

Permanent Hair Color - How it Works

Permanent color formulas change the natural hair color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. The hair color is mixed with an oxidizing agent (developer) to create an insoluble formula. Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the outer layer of the hair (cuticle) must be opened. The formula reacts with the hair's middle layer (cortex) to deposit or remove color. Permanent hair color requires maintenance to new hair growth every 4 to 6 weeks.

The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. It is the cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently change the hair's color. The strength of the developer to be used with the chosen hair color is determined by the desired results and the hair color manufacturer's directions.

10 Volume Developer allows color deposit with only slight lightening.
20 Volume Developer allows maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening
30 Volume Developer has strong lightening action with less color deposit.

Bleaching Boosters can be added to increase lifting action. Using too much developer may result in color that may not have good highlights, covers poorly, does not lift to the correct level and will fade more quickly.

Other Types of Haircolor

Temporary Hair Color - color is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft and washes out in one or two shampoos.
Semi Temporary Hair Color - color lasts up to 4-6 shampoos. Usually contain no ammonia and does not have a developer.
Demi Permanent Hair Color - color usually contains little or no ammonia and utilizes a low peroxide developer (under 10 vol.) the color lasts about 6 weeks and fades gradually back to the natural shade.
Semi Permanent Hair Color- color usually contains some ammonia and uses a deloper of 10 to 20 vol.

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